Q. I have a 2024 Subaru Forrester all-wheel-drive, and I got a gash in the right rear tire, so it had to be replaced. I have 16,000 miles on the car and the tread on the new tire is about 2/32 or 1/16 Higher than the other rear tire. The tire people told me I did not need to replace both tires in the rear or even get all four new tires. Could you give me some thoughts on this? The car is a lease, which is up in about six months.
A. Here is what Subaru recommends. Replacement tires should be within 1/4-inch of tire circumference or about 2/32-inch of each other in remaining tread depth. Based on that and especially as a rear tire I do not see a problem. An additional option if only replacing one tire, especially with very expensive tires, is to have the new replacement shaved down to match the tread depth of the other tires.
Q. Your answers to your readers’ questions are informative and very often entertaining. Realizing the primary purpose for your column is to answer questions from readers, but at times you do otherwise educate. This is especially true of drivers who do not know or understand the significant difference between automatic-on headlights and DRLs (daytime running lights). How often do we come upon other drivers in pouring rain or dead of night driving on DRLs, not headlights. As a vehicle salesperson for years it was a point in my new owner orientation to point out the difference and the switch gear operation.
A. Nearly every state has a law that states lights-on with wipers or lights-on during times of limited visibility. Daytime-running lights (which could be low beams, parking lights or high beams run at a lower voltage) may provide illumination but do not turn on the rear lights. When driving in poor weather conditions it is always best to manually turn on the headlights, just do not forget to turn them off when you stop.
Q. In your column you have recommended Kia and Hyundai vehicles. I understand they can be a good value but aren’t they prone to engine problems? Why would you recommend a vehicle that the engine can blow up?
A. You are correct that some Kia and Hyundai models have serious engine issues, but so have General Motors, Ford, Jeep and even Toyota. A neighbor of mine drove his 2017 Hyundai on a 2500-mile road trip only to have the engine give out in the last 10 miles. He had the car towed to the local dealer, where they replaced the engine and even provided a loaner car. Although Hyundai and Kia models are not perfect, as you pointed out, they are a good value and have a very good warranty. Those two items make Hyundai and Kia vehicles easy to recommend.
Q. I have a 2002 Subaru Forester and have never had any problems with it. It has only 82,000 miles on it and runs well. However, the last time I drove it, I could not get the key out when I got home. (it is in my garage and I have a spare key.) This has never happened before. Doing some research online, I found that I was pretty lucky that it had not happened before. Is there anything I can do other than bringing it into a mechanic to have it taken out?
A. At the base of the shifter there is a switch. That switch sends a signal to the car’s computer when the shifter is moved into park which releases the key in the ignition. The most common issue is the switch at the base of the shifter. The switch can fail electrically or mechanically (dirt and moisture). Sometimes rapidly moving the shifter frees the switch up enough to work. It is a little complicated to remove the shifter and top of the shifter console to get to the switch. More than likely there is a trip to your mechanic in your future.
Q. I purchased a Volkswagen Jetta new and have maintained the vehicle with the local Volkswagen dealership. They have performed all required maintenance according to VW schedule. Last month, I noticed the ‘check engine’ light, so I took the car to VW where is was diagnosed with a faulty oil pressure regulator valve. The repair cost nearly $700.00. I did a bit of research as it seemed odd to have such an issue with a perfectly maintained, low mileage car. Using AI, I found VW was aware of this issue with the 2019 VW Jetta and had extended the warranty for such. Alas, when I phoned VW customer service, I was advised that my specific vehicle was not part of the warranty extension, I asked if there was an appeal process, and was tersely advised “no”. Ergo, my question is should I pursue this further-what are the odds that VW was remiss and my vehicle should be covered- or who can I pursue this with up the VW corporate ladder.
A. I have checked various sources and found no information on a service campaign on a 2019 Volkswagen Jetta with the 1.4-liter engine. I checked with VWs website, AllData and Mitchell Pro –these are all repair databases that I use and found nothing. Artificial Intelligence programs can be useful but also frequently wrong on some issues. Although your car may be perfectly maintained, that does not mean a specific part cannot fail. Unfortunately doing all of the required maintenance does not mean that some electromechanical part will not fail. Could you try to get assistance, yes, what I found is most effective is an actual letter, not email. I would send it to the CEO of Volkswagen of America in Herndon Virginia.
Q. I have a 2015 Honda Accord with push button start. In fall of 2024 when starting car would get a grinding sound like you would get if you tried to start car and it was running This would happen only occasionally. In December car would not start at all had and it towed to local shop where starter and battery were replaced. The car still occasionally did the grinding sound but would start on next try. My wife had car and it would not start, by the time I got to her the car started for me. As of now, a year after new starter was replaced it still has this issue. The local shop cannot give me a reason. Any thoughts?
A. If the replacement was an aftermarket starter, that could be the issue. Today we are seeing many aftermarket parts that are substandard. The other possibility it the flywheel is damaged and periodically the worn spot on the engine gear (flywheel) lines up with the starter and you get gear clash. Inspecting both the starter and flywheel ring-gear would be the next step.
Q. I just moved to the area and have not found a mechanic shop yet. We own a 2018 Nissan Murano platinum with 75,000 miles and to the best of my knowledge, it has the original battery. I am not sure what battery I should buy.
A. If you are a AAA member, we can test and install a new battery with a three-year warranty at your home for $220. If you opt to shop around for a battery, the original battery is a Group 47-H5 and was rated at 550 CCA (cold cranking amps). You want a battery that meets or exceeds that rating. As an example the AAA battery is rated at 650 CCA. As for finding a good shop, check with your neighbors, a local parts store or go to aaa.com/repair for a AAA Approved Repair shop near you.
John Paul is AAA Northeast’s Car Doctor and a nationally recognized expert in automotive technology and repair regularly answering reader questions in columns published across the region. He began his career as an automotive technician and attained ASE master technician certification more than 40 years ago.
Do you have a car question? Email the Car Doctor for a personal reply: jpaul@aaanortheast.com.
