Q. We recently had our 2019 VW Beetle in for service and were told the lower engine cover was hanging and needs to be replaced at a cost of $585. They said this should be done sooner rather than later. What is a lower engine cover, and do you agree with their assessment? Is there a danger in driving as is? A second issue was the driver’s seat warmer, which was not working properly, and to fix the issue would require removal of the seat cover to replace the lower heated seat element at a cost of $1,650. Does the seat actually have to be removed?
A. The lower engine cover is often called the “belly pan.” It is usually made of plastic or composite material, though some are metal, like your VW’s. If badly damaged, it may need replacement. The part itself runs close to $300, plus labor. It is removed during oil changes and typically secured with triple-square or, sometimes, Torx fasteners, which can go missing over time. Unless the cover is severely damaged, it can often be resecured or even straightened. While not critical to basic operation, it helps protect components from road debris and water, and it contributes to airflow and noise reduction. If it is hanging down, it should at least be secured to prevent further damage. As for the seat heater, if power and wiring are intact, the heating element has likely failed, usually as an open circuit. Repair typically requires removing the seat and separating the upholstery to access the element. It’s a labor-intensive job, which helps explain the cost.
Q. I enjoy washing my car, but there is a wide variety of products available. Do you have one you favor?
A. In the past, I used whatever dedicated car wash soap was on sale. Never use dish detergent unless you want to strip away wax. Lately, I have been using Mothers California Gold Ceramic Wash & Wax. It cleans well, adds shine, and helps water bead. It also softens water slightly, which reduces spotting. Just keep in mind it provides only temporary hydrophobic protection, not a true ceramic coating. For light cleaning, I am still a fan of Meguiar’s Waterless Wash & Wax when the car is not too dirty.
Q. Over the weekend, I filled my 2014 Toyota Camry with the highest-octane fuel to help clean carbon deposits and injectors. It cost just under $100. Am I correct that higher-octane fuel burns slower? I will return to regular at the next fill-up.
A. This is a common misconception. Higher-octane fuel does not burn slower — it simply resists engine knock under higher compression. In your Camry, performance and fuel economy will be about the same regardless of octane. For cleaning, most gasoline — especially top tier brands — already contains detergents in all octane grades, so using premium alone provides little added benefit. If it were my car, I would stick with 87 octane and use a fuel system cleaner, such as Techron, a couple of times per year.
Q. I just had my 2022 Mazda CX-5 serviced for an oil and filter change and tire rotation at 36,928 miles. The service department suggested a brake flush (with DOT 3 fluid) and a coolant flush (Mazda says the first coolant flush is at 120,000 miles, and the coolant looks okay). What are your thoughts on this and the fluids to use?
A. According to the service recommendations for your Mazda, the coolant should be replaced at 10 years or 120,000 miles. It should then be replaced every five years or 60,000 miles thereafter. From what I can tell, Mazda does not have a specific interval for a brake fluid flush. That being said, at AAA we see a benefit to replacing brake fluid every three to five years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (it attracts moisture), and moisture is the enemy of any brake system. Regarding what fluids to use, DOT 3 brake fluid is correct, and for coolant the best choice is Mazda FL-22. Acceptable aftermarket equivalents are “Asian Vehicle Green” coolants specifically labeled as compatible with Mazda FL-22.
Q. I replaced the shifter cable on my 2008 GMC 3500 truck, but now when I go to put it into drive, it pops off the steering column attachment point. What could be the cause?
A. There are a couple of possibilities. You need to start by installing the cable when the transmission is in neutral. Then shift the transmission to park and check the adjustment. There is a specific procedure to make sure the cable is lined up correctly. The other possibility is that you got the wrong cable — perhaps one for the diesel instead of the gas engine — or that it is simply a poorly made cable. If the cable is identical to the old one, the issue is in the installation. I would recommend getting a service manual so you can follow the installation steps. You may also want to consider a DIY subscription to ALLDATA. It is reasonably priced, with one-month and one-year subscription plans.
Q. I am having an argument with my daughter. She drives to and from the beach barefoot. You seem to have all the answers—is barefoot driving illegal?
A. No, driving barefoot is not illegal. However, if a crash occurred due to a lack of reasonable footwear, she could be cited. Also, sandy “beach feet” could slip off the pedals. Although it is not illegal to drive barefoot, proper footwear makes for safer driving.
Q. My wife just purchased a 2026 Subaru Forester. The engine starts at 1,500 RPM and, after a few minutes, drops to around 650 RPM. I explained to her that she should let the idle drop before driving away, which she does not. My question is: is she causing harm to the engine by driving off at the higher RPM?
A. Is she causing harm to the engine? Probably not. The elevated idle speed during startup is normal and part of the engine’s cold-start strategy. The car is ready to drive once all the warning lights on the dashboard turn off, regardless of idle speed. What I recommend with any car, new or old, is to avoid hard acceleration for the first few minutes to allow all the vital fluids to circulate.
Last updated on July 8, 2026 by AAA Staff
John Paul is AAA Northeast’s Car Doctor and a nationally recognized expert in automotive technology and repair regularly answering reader questions in columns published across the region. He began his career as an automotive technician and attained ASE master technician certification more than 40 years ago.
Do you have a car question? Email the Car Doctor for a personal reply: jpaul@aaanortheast.com.
