Are you dreaming of a trip to Japan? If you’re like most first-timers, you plan to split your time between technicolor Tokyo and historic Kyoto. But many travelers also set aside a day or two to visit a countryside ryokan, one of the purest, most immersive experiences of Japanese hospitality.
That’s exactly what my husband and I did on our trip to Japan last year. Between Japan’s old and new capital cities, we stopped off in Hakone for a night at a ryokan. The experience was like stepping into a parallel world, where my husband and I were invited to slip off our shoes and don traditional robes for the evening and where soaking in a cypress tub of hot spring water was a typical afternoon activity. But our stay was also very structured, with strict rules and timetables.
What Is a Japanese Ryokan?
Ryokans are traditional Japanese inns. They’re also the perfect place to immerse yourself in Japan’s famous omotenashi, a deep-rooted hospitality that emphasizes mindfulness and preparedness down to the most minor details. Many ryokans also have onsen — bathing facilities built around natural hot springs.
Ryokan stays typically include kaiseki dinners and breakfasts. Kaiseki is a traditional multicourse meal highlighting various preparation techniques and seasonal ingredients. It is intricate, intriguing and often intimidating, as the many small courses feature foods unfamiliar to American palates.
My Experience Staying at a Japanese Ryokan
We stayed at Yama No Chaya, a ryokan in the forest at the end of a suspension bridge in Hakone, Japan. A car from the ryokan picked us up at the train station and took us to the inn, where a few staff members stood outside in greeting.
As we approached the doorway, we were instructed to stow away our shoes and put on slippers. Then, our designated attendant took us through a maze of hallways to a tatami mat room with two Western-style twin beds and an open-air cypress bath on the private balcony. We were asked to choose between two dinner time slots in the room. We were also invited to book a private timeslot on one of the ryokan’s large spring-fed onsens.
Because we were staying for only one night, we started enjoying the ryokan’s activities as soon as the attendant left the room. First up: a soak in the private onsen. In Japan, washing up before stepping into the bath is very important. Tubs are for soaking, not cleansing. Afterward, we headed to the glass-walled bar lounge for sake, Japanese rice wine, served in bamboo cups.
The meals are perhaps the most important element of a ryokan stay. We opted for a mid-evening supper to have time to enjoy the outdoor onsen before bed. The attendant brought in course after course — miso soup, several varieties of fish (raw and cooked), soba noodles, yaki mochi grilled on the table in front of us and so much more. As a picky eater, I found the meal enjoyable and challenging. Breakfast the next morning was even more difficult. Starting the day with cups of green tea, onion soup, tofu and baby eels was not easy for me.
Checkout was at 10 a.m. sharp — a fact we were politely reminded of more than once. When we exited the room at 9:50 a.m., our attendant stood outside the door, waiting to escort us out. As we switched footwear at the entrance, our luggage was whisked away while our attendant bid us a rushed farewell.
Whoosh! In what felt like the blink of an eye, the tranquil world of the ryokan evaporated, and we were off to Tokyo.
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Book NowWhat Is the Ideal Length of Stay?
For us, one night was rushed but still worth it. Most ryokans invite guests to check in between 5 and 3 p.m. Checkout is 10 a.m., which is early by American standards.
If you have the time and budget, a two-night ryokan stay is ideal. You’ll have more time to soak in the surroundings, enjoy the lounge, and spend more time in the onsen.
Should You Stay in a Ryokan?
Before you book a ryokan stay, it’s important to understand that Japanese ometenashi is a two-way street. Ryokan owners and staff exude deep respect and care for you as the guest, but you must also show deep respect and care for the ryokan’s culture and traditions. If you’re not willing to spend a pretty penny for an experience that requires you to pay attention to details and social expectations, skip the ryokan.
That said, staying at a ryokan is one of the best ways to experience Japanese hospitality. Ryokans are not luxurious in the way that European grand dame hotels or Tokyo high-rises are, but they are authentic. They are peaceful and deeply immersive. You will discover something new.
Ultimately, it’s up to you whether a Japanese ryokan experience is worth your time and money. You will walk away from a ryokan with memories and a deeper knowledge of Japanese traditions. But, if you’re exploring Japan for the first time and don’t make it to a ryokan, rest assured that you’ll still have a fantastic time.
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Have you ever been to Japan? Would you like to go and stay in a ryokan? Tell us in the comments.
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2 Thoughts on “What It’s Like To Stay at a Japanese Ryokan”
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We stayed in a very traditional ryokan about 10 years ago on a visit to Japan. We went with our son who had been living there for a few years. It was a wonderful, unforgettable experience. They accepted only cash; that was something to be aware of. The tree of us slept and ate in a large tatami room. The futons were made up for us on the floor each evening, and rolled up and stored away during the day. Our breakfast was also served on low tables on the floor – traditional fare of miso soup, fish and tea for breakfast. (We didn’t order our food – it was selected and served according to the ryokan.) The communal hot baths were segregated by gender and VERY hot, but so relaxing. It was a great way to experience ancient, traditional Japanese culture. But as the author noted, one has to be willing to observe and respect that culture. Which is perhaps the most Japanese thing of all: respect and consideration for the other, rather than oneself.
It sounds like an interesting experience but is there any way to give them prior notice so they refrain from bringing me any eels or similar atypical fare? I do eat sushi and sashimi but prefer standard fish like tuna, salmon, fluke and yellowtail.